the mirror seems fine, just needs to be re-glued. But right now, you wouldn't notice the headliner anyway, because the rear view mirror dropped off the windshield a few weeks ago. The headliner is sagging, but it isn't annoying yet because I was pretty successful in pinning it up out of the way. Either way, the engine does still run "fine", but it was at this point when I decided that this was a restoration project for another day - this was two years ago. It sat for 2.5 years till this summer when I replaced the battery, and it started right up.īecause of this, I really have not spent much time in trying to track down the knock and what seems to be a head gasket leak. So I parked the Range Rover, and committed to restoring it sometime in the future. Besides, all that time I was in the final stages of driving and working the kinks out of a Defender project. It was shortly after that when I found a nice 1998 Disco for my kids to drive, and I sort of gave up on this Range Rover. The cam shaft has zero markings or trace lines, it appears to be very low mileage. And it looks like at least one of the cylinder sleeves may be new. When I pulled the pan, there was oil in it, and no metal shavings or sparkle. The cylinders are very clean, and it seems to hold compression (will attempt a test soon). Then the valve cover seems to have non-standard bolts. odd, the head really looks like it has been pulled, but. Then I noticed that the head bolts don't look new. The heads seem to have been blasted clean, but they have been run. Just yesterday I took the time to put it on a stand and take a close look. The replacement engine has no real known history, but it has obviously been worked on. I figured I'd just drive the thing till it started acting like it was breaking, and by then, I'd have a great engine ready to swap in. This is when I bought the 4.2 engine that is in my garage. More of a distinct tap that develops once it gets to normal operating temps. Shortly after that when I started to hear a pronounced knock from the engine. Shortly after that, the engine seemed to be producing a lot of compression in the coolant system, but no other symptoms were noted. Or maybe it's the wires that go to the pads. This made me start to investigate the brakes, although they still seemed to work fine - it looks like the previous owner CUT THE WIRES that go to the wheel sensors. Shortly after that, the SRS, TC, and ABS lights came on. This is about $500 to fix with a replaced/rebuilt computer. I hot wired the seat into a position where I can drive, then pulled the fuse. I guess this is what happens when the control computer goes out. Not long after that, the driver's seat started going crazy.
#RANGE ROVER CLASSIC FORUMS CRACK#
Full top to bottom crack line all the way down. Shortly after that, a sprinkler hit the otherwise good windshield on a 100+ degree day, and. Shortly after that, the recirc button on the HVAC also broke and is just stuck in the OFF position.
#RANGE ROVER CLASSIC FORUMS WINDOWS#
The rear windows sometimes don't want to work, both of them. Shortly after that was "sorted" one of the rear window switches snapped and broke. After running in circles on this, I found that if I unplugged the temp sensor on the top of the engine it would not do this. But I started chasing an issue where it would die after the first five minutes of driving, right when it warmed up. When it runs, it runs fine, feels strong. (The original wheels are currently on the my Disco, but I would put them on the Range Rover for the sale.) You can take the tires and wheels on it, or you can take the used but good Goodyears on the original Hurricane wheels, or both. The current tires seem OK, they are new and nothing special.Probably a typical kit, but I keep forgetting to look at what brand. The air springs have been replaced by Bilstien shocks and some blue springs.The exhaust looks to be a good aftermarket type, and it sounds pretty good.New battery Newish wires and plugs and cap Newish alternator New high pressure steering hoses.Comes with a 4.2 engine, complete, sans ancillaries.Transmission seems to shift fine, but sometimes it does feel like the BW has locked up.It stops well, lots of feedback in the pedal.Pretty complete, no major missing components.
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